The principle of Korean skincare is known for its method of layering one product over another.
In reality, it’s difficult to say who invented it – the Japanese or the Koreans.
In any case, all Asians (except those who use Western brands) strictly adhere to it.
In general, you can consider it on this diagram.
It all depends on your skin’s needs, so some steps can be omitted (masks and peels are not used every day), and additional skincare products are applied according to a special schedule.
In an ideal scenario, the Asian skincare routine looks like this:
- Double Cleansing – hydrophilic oil and foaming cleanser. In the morning, only use the foaming cleanser.
- Exfoliants and scrubs (2-3 times a week).
- Toner, lotion.
- Masks – sheet masks, alginate masks, hydrating masks, and cleansing masks (2-3 times a week).
- Eye cream.
- Serum.
- Emulsion (replaces a lightweight cream) or facial oil.
- Cream (or a night mask in the evening).
- Sun protection (only in the morning) – SPF cream, makeup base with SPF, BB cream with SPF.
Let’s look at the steps in more detail:
Hydrophilic Oil: This is the first step in a two-step cleansing routine. It’s not necessary if you don’t need to remove makeup. Oil effectively dissolves makeup, including waterproof products. Additionally, it’s great for dissolving sebum plugs in pores, helping to cleanse them. Apply the oil to dry hands and a dry face, massage for one to two minutes, paying special attention to hard-to-reach areas like the hairline, nose wings, and eyebrows. Then moisten your hands to turn the oil into a white emulsion and continue massaging your face. Finally, rinse off any remaining residue with water.
Foaming Cleanser: This step is necessary to thoroughly cleanse your face of any remaining oil or makeup. Essentially, you can replace the foaming cleanser with a cleansing gel. Foam (i.e., foaming cleansing product) is less drying for the skin. For foam in a tube, it’s best to get a foam maker net. You can create foam manually, but it will take a little more time. Apply the product to a wet foam maker net or konjac sponge and “squeeze” it to create foam. Then apply the foam to your face and massage.
Exfoliating Scrub: A gentle product for exfoliating dead skin cells that doesn’t scratch the skin, suitable for sensitive skin. Typically, scrubs are either acid or enzyme-based. Apply to dry or slightly damp skin and start rubbing. During friction, the gel turns into small pellets, which are used for exfoliation. Then simply rinse it off with water. It’s recommended to use 2-3 times a week.
Toner: Balances the pH of the skin after cleansing, provides basic light hydration, and enhances the penetration of subsequent skincare products. It can be acidic, hydrating, etc., depending on the skin’s needs. After cleansing, you can use a lotion, hydrating toner (skin), or mist. Lotion is a liquid slightly denser than water; you only need a couple of drops for your entire face. Apply it to your palm, rub it between your fingers, and pat it onto your slightly damp face until fully absorbed.
Mask: There are different types of masks for hydrating, nourishing, brightening, cleansing, and pore-tightening. Typically, masks are used 2-3 times a week.
Serum or Essence: This is a product with a high concentration of active ingredients, much higher than that of a cream. There are brightening, hydrating, anti-aging, mattifying, etc., serums. They are rich in active ingredients, so you need to apply them sparingly. It’s best to apply them with fingertip massages. Serums are applied before the cream. Apply the cream 10-15 minutes after applying the serum so that the serum has time to be absorbed.
Emulsion, Lotion, or Oil: An additional step is applying emulsion, which is applied to the skin between the serum and the cream. For oily and combination skin types, emollients containing both hydration and nourishing ingredients are usually sufficient. For dry skin, you may need a facial oil, especially in cold weather. For normal skin, using a facial oil is optional.
Cream: Apply it 10 minutes after the last skincare product. Korean creams are not like what we are used to. They are not greasy, have a gel-like texture, absorb quickly, and don’t leave a film. About 99% of Korean creams don’t contain SPF, so there’s no clear division between day and night creams. Night cream for Asians is usually a thick, rich balm.
Night Mask: This is for hydration, nourishment, brightening, and anti-aging. Sleeping masks, like regular masks, are recommended 2-3 times a week. If you haven’t heard of sleeping masks, they are not much different from regular creams. Night masks are absorbed into the skin, and you can go to sleep with them on. Simply wash your face in the morning. It’s advisable to apply them 20-30 minutes before bedtime to ensure they are fully absorbed.
Sun Protection: Although it’s listed last, it’s one of the most important skincare steps. It helps prevent premature aging, protects skin cells from oxidation and subsequent damage, and guards against unwanted pigmentation. Sun exposure is the number one cause of skin aging and is also a factor in causing skin cancer.
