Regardless of the origin of pigmentation, the most crucial aspect in combating it is protection against UV radiation, as it stimulates melanin synthesis and leads to increased pigmentation.
Typically, whitening cosmetic products contain several active ingredients.
Most often, products that inhibit melanin synthesis are combined with exfoliating substances, as well as anti-inflammatory additives and sunscreens.
Before selecting your “own” whitening product, you need to understand the causes of hyperpigmentation.
Skin pigmentation increases after UV exposure, can occur due to inflammation and frequent skin trauma (scratching, friction, etc.), after certain cosmetic procedures (abrasion, laser hair removal, peeling, etc.), during pregnancy, certain medical conditions, and during menopause.
It can be said that any influence that causes cell damage, the appearance of free radicals, and the activation of the immune system should lead to increased melanogenesis.
To prevent the development of hyperpigmentation for all skin types, it is necessary to use UV filters and avoid the sun before and after peeling, laser hair removal, plastic surgery, skin whitening, during pregnancy, when taking hormonal contraceptives, and when taking antibiotics.
But if hyperpigmentation has still occurred and does not resolve on its own, it needs to be treated—whitened.
To achieve the optimal result, it is necessary to choose an individual whitening strategy taking into account the skin type and the cause of hyperpigmentation.
Whitening, as a method of dealing with hyperpigmentation, consists of two main stages: – exfoliating the stratum corneum; – reducing melanin production (depigmenting therapy).
For exfoliating the stratum corneum, AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, and others are most commonly used. Exfoliation of pigmented spots can also be performed using machine methods (laser abrasion, dermabrasion).
Don’t expect quick results from whitening products.
If you have pigmentation, whitening products should be used regularly for 3 to 6 months, and in combination for a lasting effect.
Many Korean brands produce complete lines of whitening cosmetics, starting from cleansing products and ending with creams.
Whitening cosmetics may contain the following active ingredients: hydroquinone, hydrogen peroxide, kojic acid, arbutin (found in extracts of bearberry, paper mulberry, and some other plants), derivatives of ascorbic acid, licorice extract, as well as alpha hydroxy acids, retinoids, and several other substances.
They all differ in their mechanism of action, whitening effectiveness, and toxic effect on cells.
The strongest whitening agent is hydroquinone, but it is also the most toxic. In fact, its toxicity is the reason for its whitening effect. Hydroquinone is absorbed through the skin into the bloodstream, so it should not be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Arbutin has a milder effect and is found in plants traditionally used as whitening agents.
Arbutin acts by inhibiting melanin synthesis in the skin, more precisely, by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme required for melanin synthesis. Arbutin is considered non-toxic, but its whitening effect is weaker than that of hydroquinone.
Niacinamide is another traditional component of whitening products and represents vitamin B3. It evens out skin tone, reduces redness, and fades post-acne marks. Additionally, it improves skin elasticity and its barrier function, helping to lighten age-related pigmentation and give the skin inner radiance and clarity.
Niacin (vitamin PP) is less commonly found in products than niacinamide but also has an excellent effect. It evens out skin tone, reduces redness, and significantly reduces skin hyperpigmentation.
Kojic Acid is becoming increasingly popular as a whitening agent, especially in professional lines. Like arbutin, it inhibits tyrosinase and does not have a toxic effect. Additionally, it has a mild exfoliating and antioxidant effect.
Ascorbic Acid (LAA, vitamin C) also inhibits tyrosinase and suppresses melanin synthesis. It is highly unstable on its own, but more stable derivatives have been developed, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. It significantly lightens pigmentation, adds radiance to the skin, has an antioxidant effect on skin cells, and stimulates collagen synthesis.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) have exfoliating properties, so they can be used to remove the upper pigmented layer of the skin. The most commonly used are citric acid and glycolic acid.
Glycolic acid may be found in cosmetics in combination with kojic and azelaic acids, which enhances the whitening effect.
